Azore Islands, Portugal

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In early 2018, my good friend, and fellow mom, and I were discussing how we missed traveling to exotic places. We both love traveling more than our spouses so it led to the idea that we should just take a trip with just the two of us. We decided to spend five days hiking in the Azores Island of Sao Miguel, followed by several days in Lisbon in September after much research. At this time of year, the weather is beautiful and Portugal is less crowded. Below is our wonderful itinerary with tips so that you can enjoy the area as much as we did!

 Unfortunately, I had not planned a trip in quite some time. I really should have looked at a map prior to planning. Yes, you guessed it. I screwed up. Instead of booking a flight to the Azores Islands, then to Lisbon, and then back to JFK, I booked our flights from JFK to Lisbon and back. Thankfully, my friend was very forgiving when we realized that we had to purchase additional airline tickets to travel from Lisbon to the Azores Islands and back. 

Sao Miguel Island, the largest of the islands that makes up the Azores Islands. Below, are my recommendations for a car rental and our hotel that I highly recommend! We went directly to Sete Cidades for the day before heading to check into our hotel. 

Table of Contents

    Car Rental

    While it is easy to obtain a car rental in Sao Miguel, it is important to make a reservation early. I recommend using Expedia to make your reservation. We received the tiniest car I had ever seen. Thankfully, we only brought hiking backpacks so we were able to fit everything in the car. We picked up our car at the airport and went toward Sete Cidades to our first of many stops, Vista do Rei. 

    Hotel: Octant Furnas 

    Location: Povoacao, in a regional park

    Address: Avenida Dr. Manuel de Arriaga, Furnas, 9675-022 São Miguel, Portugal

    This hotel is absolutely beautiful. We stayed here the entire time we were in Sao Miguel. There is an indoor pool which was magical, a beautiful outdoor terrace pool, and beautiful grounds. We made sure to walk around the property and enjoy the indoor pool. Their restaurant is called À Terra and the food was fantastic. They also have a complimentary breakfast with a huge spread of food, and a separate lounge area that feels as if you are in a garden. 

    On hiking days, we often made sandwiches from the breakfast spread and brought them with us so that we didn’t have to worry about finding lunch, especially if we were still on the trail. 

    Below, is a day-to-day table of contents to easily navigate the itinerary:

    Day 1: Sete Cidades and Ponta Ferreira

    Sete Cidades is the name of a parish that is part of Ponte Delgado. It is most famous for the Lagoa das Sete Cidades which is made up of two lakes named Lagoa Verde and Lagoa Azul. These are part of a volcanic crater which measures three miles across. 

    First Stop: Miradouro da Vista do Rei

    The first and second stops are the viewpoints to see Lagoa das Sete Cidades. To truly capture the beauty of Sete Cidades, there are several viewpoints to stop at along the way. Vista Do Rei is a beautiful spot with an excellent observation deck from which to take photos. The name means Viewpoint of the King. One thing to note is that you will likely not be able to see anything on a foggy day so I’d recommend checking the SpotAzores app which gives you up to the minute view of the camera online prior to deciding whether to go.


    Once at the viewpoint, you have approximately 20 minutes to stay. You can either stay at the viewpoint and take photos, which will take less than 20 minutes or you could decide to take a hike. One option is to hike for 2 hours to the village of Sete Cidades. Another option is to go in the opposite direction around the Caldera called the Mata do Canario trail which will take 8 hours (out and back) as it is 15.1 miles. We opted to take photos and then head to the next viewpoint.

    There is an abandoned hotel nearby called Monte Palace Hotel and many tourists will go to the roof to take pictures. However, I’d caution against this due to safety concerns. 

    Second Stop: Miradouro da Boca do Inferno (Hell’s Mouth Viewpoint)

    Parking: Look for a driveway and a blue sign on the side stating 100m away. Once at the entrance, you will see a Lagoa Do Canario sign before turning on the dirt road and parking your car. From there, it is a 5-minute walk down some steps to the viewpoint. 

    This vista is even more breathtaking than the first stop! The name means Hell’s Mouth Viewpoint. If you have time, I recommend hiking down to see Lagoa do Canario. This hike is 1.6 miles and takes approximately 45 minutes in total. 

    Third Stop: Ponta da Ferraria

    Before heading toward our hotel, we drove to Ponta da Ferraria to stick our toes into geothermal waters. Ponta da Ferraria is a cove with water warmed by geothermal springs. This causes a mix of cold and warm water which depending on the time of day, can either be boiling hot (low tide) or very cold (high tide.) Make sure to go between low and high tide for the best temperature. 

    After checking out the cove, we headed back to our hotel which was about a two hour drive. We checked into the hotel, relaxed in our beautiful room, walked around the hotel and eventually went down to the hotel restaurant À Terra for a delicious dinner.

    Day 2: Lagoa Rasa, Lagoa Santiago and Ponta Delgada

    First Stop: Lagoa Rasa and Lagoa Santiago

    Besides Cete Cidades, there are also two lagoons named Lagoa Rasa and Lagoa Santiago that are volcanic craters in the same general region. We drove from the hotel to the first stop, Lagoa Rasa, which took about 25 minutes. 

    Second Stop: Ponta Delgada

    Ponta Delgada is the capital of the Azores Islands located on Sao Miguel. It is about a 45-minute drive from Lagos de Fogo. We opted to explore the city on our own. However, this historical walking tour is a wonderful option for those wanting to see some sights with a knowledgeable guide. Another option is a food tour around the city which if timed well, could also serve as your lunch!

    If you decide to travel to Sao Miguel between April and October, I would highly recommend a half-day dolphin and whale tour! Unfortunately, we were not able to do this when we were there.

    Day 3: Lagoa de Fogo and Terra Nostra Garden, Furnas

    First Stop: Lagoa de Fogo

    Parking: Miradouro da Barrosa or Miradouro da Lagoa do Fogo

    Best time: Before 9am if you are there between June and August

    We were excited abut this hike and it did not disappoint. When we visited in 2018, there were several parking lot options and easy access to the lake. However, since June 2023, this has changed. From 9am-7pm from June to August, there is no car access and you must wait for a bus to take you to the viewpoint and back. Unfortunately, this bus runs very infrequently. Therefore, I’d recommend arriving at sunrise so that you can park near the viewpoint and hike there and back before access is restricted at 9am. 

    The hike takes about 2 hours round trip. The views along the way are spectacular. The hike is moderately challenging as there is a section with a large drop-off. However, someone built a ladder as you can see below to help navigate that climb. Other than this section, I would say that the hike is manageable for semi-experienced hikers as long as you’re wearing the appropriate footwear (sturdy hiking boots). After a lovely hike and lunch, you will head back in the direction of the hotel and explore Terra Nostra Garden in Furnas

    Second Stop: Terra Nostra Garden, Furnas

    AddressLargo Marquês da Praia e Monfort, 9675-061 Furnas, Portugal

    This garden is in the center of Sao Miguel in the vale de furnas (Volcano Valley). It is absolutely gorgeous and also has a thermal pool to enjoy. The public must pay an entrance fee for tickets to access the pool and gardens. The grounds are open from 10:30-4:30pm. If you are a guest of the Terra Nostra Garden hotel, you have free access. 

    Day 4: Visiting the Gorreana Tea factory

    First and only StopGorreana Tea Factory

    Address: Gorreana – 9625-304 Maia

    Gorreana is the oldest tea factory in Europe. The grounds are beautiful and expansive. They provide guided tours for a fee but you aren’t required to participate. We opted to walk around the grounds and visit the factory on our own. for free. The factory also has a cafe and shop, though we did not choose to eat there. Afterward, we headed back to the hotel to relax and enjoy their amenities. 

    Day 5: Hiking to Sanguinho and the Caldeiras Furnas 

    First Stop: Salto do Prego and Salto do Carragao hiking trails to hike to Sanguinho

    Starting Point: Trailhead directions here in the Faial da Terra village – look for the yellow and red wooden signs that indicate the location of the trailhead.

    In the Faial da Terra parish, there is the Salta de prego and salto de carrago hikes. This is a 6.4 mile (out and back) moderately challenging trail that will take you through dense vegetation to see two different waterfalls and end up in an abandoned village (known as Sanguinho.) lt will take approximately 4 hours to hike (with stops to take photos and explore the village) 

    Second Stop: Caldeiras da Furnas

    Address: plenty of parking near here

    These holes in the ground are created by volcanic eruptions and many of them are seen in this region. There is plenty of parking. You will not need any more than hour here. 

    If there is one thing you should try while vacationing in the Azore Islands, it is cozida. Cozida, is a meat stew cooked the volcanic heat. It is only made in Furnas, Sao Miguel.

    Day 6: Off to Lisbon! 

    After 5 amazing days in the Azore Islands, it was nice to head to Lisbon for a change of scenery. We headed to the airport and arrived in Lisbon a few hours later. 

    Hotel: Lisbon Wine Hotel

    Location: Lisbon, Portugal 

    Address: Rua Portas de Santo Antão 88, Lisbon, Lisboa, 1150-266

    From the airport, we took a taxi to our hotel and dropped off our bags. Our room had a balcony with a great view overlooking the street. The hotel itself was beautiful, and modern. They also have a bar and restaurant. After settling in, we went out and walked around the city, stopped at a restaurant for lunch and relaxed. We walked by the Teatro Romano which is the site of archeological ruins, opened in 2015 to the public. As we walked by, we were able to see some of the ruins as well as a group of dancers performing!

    First Stop: Walking Tour of Lisbon

    Meeting Point: Saint Vincente Statue, Beco de Santa Helena 25, 1100-411 Lisboa, Portugal

    This three-hour walking tour that you can book here shows you the Igreja de Santiago (St. James Church), Museu Lisboa which includes the Teatro Romato, as discussed above as well as 7 other stops along the way. After this, it will be time to head back to the hotel to shower and freshen up before dinner. While, you can find a tour with Fado and a meal, I recommend finding a separate restaurant for dinner before heading to your next stop. 

    Second Stop: Live Fado with Porto Wine Tour

    Address: 538 Garratt Lane, Earlsfield, London, SW17 0NY

    I had never heard of Fado prior to this trip. From my understanding Fado is a type of Portuguese singing that is often accompanied by guitars and sung at bars or pubs. It is often very melancholy and reminds me of a very sad opera. It was beautiful to listen to. I highly recommend that you experience this! This tour can be booked here. It lasts for about an hour. Of note, you can NOT take photos or videos of htese shows typically. We were not allowed to which honestly made for a better experience as we were more focused on the actual show.

    Alternate Tour that includes Fado: Walking tour with Dinner and Fado

    Day 7: Off to Sintra!

    We decided to head to Sintra, a town outside Lisbon for our last day on the train. It was a 45-minute train ride. It took about 45 minutes to walk from the train statio to Pena Palace. However, you may find it easier to book a half or full day tour so that you don’t have to worry about coordinating transportation. Below, is a good option as it allows you to not only to see the sites, but provides transportation. It takes an average of 40-45 minutes to walk to each site if you choose to do it on your own without a tour. 

    First Stop: Full-day Tour of Sintra

    Meeting Point: Meet at the top of Miradouro Parque Eduardo VII at the Eduardo VII Park Viewpoint
    Included Attractions: The Village of Sintra, Pena Palace, and Regaleira

    Tour Notes: Cost of tour does not include entry fee for Pena Palace or cost of lunch

    This tour starts in Lisbon and takes you to Sintra for the day. The village of Sintra is beautiful and quaint. Be aware that getting up to Pena Palace sits atop a hill that is part of the Sintra Mountains overlooking the village of Sintra. Getting to Pena Palace for the tour requires a moderately challenging walk up this hill. Trust me when I say that this tour of Pena Palace and the surrounding park is worth it! A photo of the palace is below. 

    Pena Palace, Sintra, Portugal

    This was our last day of vacation before flying out the next morning. We had dinner at the hotel restaurant before heading to bed early. There are so many fun things to do in The Azores Islands and Lisbon, and the above itinerary will make for a fun-filled, adventurous week! When planning your trip, I’d first start by using the links above to book your hotel reservations and schedule your tours, which I have outlined above. As for restaurants, we did not need to book any of them in advance but you can certainly choose to do so. Saõ Miguel and Lisbon have many wonderful restaurants so you will have plenty from which to choose. 

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    All the best,

    Alexis